Saturday, March 31, 2007

The Mist of Propaganda

April Fool's Day has come one day earlier this year, with this morning's news of David Hicks' sentencing and the extremely transparent condition that he may not speak to the press for the first year of his sentence - which brings us past the next federal election, of course. And also giving Ruddock, Downer et al a serious hard-on, the absurd new carry-on rules for international flights, wherein potentially explosive lip-glosses and deodorants are required to be sealed in plastic ziplock sandwich bags. Sadly, that size bag does not fit my new bottle of Clarins Expertise e3p Screen Mist, which is supposed to protect the skin from electromagnetic waves as well as urban pollution. How perfect it would have been on a flight!

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Thursday, March 29, 2007

The George Effect

The following is the text of my column, Deeply Superficial, in the (sydney) magazine this week:

I don’t know where the idea of the male hairdresser as sex god came about but certainly Warren Beatty gave the notion currency in his sensational performance as the promiscuous George in Hal Ashby’s 1975 movie Shampoo. Thanks to Beatty, since then just about every straight hair stylist on the planet seems to have modelled himself after George who, in turn, (a little bit of trivia here) was himself modelled on sixties hairdresser-to-the-stars Jay Sebring, more famous now for being murdered with his old girlfriend Sharon Tate when the Manson Family came calling in 1969. I’m sure straight male hairdressers don’t expect Sebring’s fate but they do rather fancy his life – an endless stream of beautiful, available women, fast-cars, rock-star celebrity and a working wardrobe of tight leather pants. If you think I’m wrong about this, consider how many male hairdressers you run across who look like Kevin Rudd.

Clearly, there is something sexual about having a woman trembling and vulnerable in your hands and the women rather like it too, especially if you dress like Jim Morrison. The “service” provided sometimes is less about getting rid of split ends and more about buying an attractive man’s total attention for an hour or so. George actually offered his special clients a shag with their shag cut – they may not go that far in South Yarra or Surry Hills, but a little bit of flirtation with your foils make the hefty cost of the experience so much more palatable.

But I am digressing because I want to talk about Frédéric Fekkai, internationally famous hairstylist, and the man most often these days given the George comparison. (Although Jonathan Antin, of Arena’s reality series Blow Out, must be a close second.) Fekkai was in Australia recently to promote his expansive range of hair care products, which are available nationally at Mecca Cosmetica and to launch his Ageless three-step regimen for aging and thinning hair. A native Frenchman of Moroccan background, he came into hairdressing by a circuitous route – he accepted a small acting role on a film to help him pay his way through law school and on the set became fascinated with the work of the hair stylists. He tossed his degree and moved from Provence to Paris to learn his craft. In the late eighties he went to New York, where he launched a salon in Bergdorf Goodman and, in 1996, his own salon and spa on 57th Street. Now he has salons and spas in Beverly Hills and Palm Beach and counts among his clients Scarlett Johansson, Heidi Klum, Debra Messing, Salma Hayek and Penelope Cruz.

It’s not a bad career move for a hairdresser to be handsome, charming and blessed with an exotic accent. But Fekkai’s real skill seems to be in making his clients feel that they absolutely the centre of his attention. He has his client stand up while he cuts her hair, so that he can see her silhouette, her body language – the total woman. He is also liberal with his advice on how his client should dress and how she should do her makeup. (I bet those New York dames are putty in his hands.) In person, he’s different to what I expected – intelligent, elegant, relaxed, and very un-George, with no sign of George’s leather pants or chestwig-baring shirts. And he diverges from George in the matter of commitment – last year he got married for the second time, to YSL PR rep Shirin von Wulffen.

His message about beauty is what we want to hear. “Its important that today a very sophisticated woman is not just trendy. What matters is what looks sensational on you.” If there is a trend today, he says, it’s to customise. Hair length and colour are ageless, as long as it suits you. The best news? In his New York salon, he still leaves a few slots in his schedule open for new, non-celebrity clients. “The most exciting thing is when you see someone for the first time. You give them the best you can,” he says. So go for it, girls…

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Kangaroo Court

From civil rights lawyer H. Candace Gorman today on the Huffington Post, a very clear summary of what happened in David Hicks' commital hearing at Gitmo yesterday.

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Fat Chance

I'm not sure whether it is supposed to be some kind of social experiment, but you don't need a scientist to tell you that when you get a group of hungry, stressed, insecure and lonely teenage girls in a room and have cameras on them 18 hours in the day, some of them are going to break down in tears. Some of them are going to act like prima donnas. One or two are going to hate each other on sight. And at least one will give a spectacularly good attention-grabbing performace of an anxiety attack.

I felt a bit squeamish last night watching the first episode of the the third series of Australia's Next Top Model because of the intense voyeurism associated with the brand. Last night, in the first episode, the camera fixed for far too long on poor Jaime's teary arguments with her boyfriend, which led to her bailing out of the program after barely a week of competition. Yes, yes, we know modelling is a tough profession, but these intrusive expeditions into teenage girls' personal lives are nothing to do with modelling and all about great grabs for the program's promos. In signing up for "an opportunity of a lifetime", young girls who are extremely unsophisticated in the ways of the media (as often are their families) have signed away their rights to any dignity and privacy. It's mandatory for participants in reality TV programs to do this, but I think a little more caution should be taken with tender young girls who, after all, are competing for a professional prize, not just to prove they are Australia's Next Best Exhibitionist, as with Big Brother. How humiliated do they feel when they watch themselves afterwards? Is this an embarrassment they carry with them for life?

And another thing - while I totally applaud the fact that the judges (a decent bunch of fashion professionals) are delicate about the issue of weight and size, gently telling only one or two girls that they should, in Alex Perry's words, drop "a couple of Ks", the reality is that only ethereal, waif-like Alice of the sharp hipbones is likely to have a big career on the international modelling circuit. This is a serious problem, endemic in the fashion business, that everyone is tippy-toeing around. It would hardly be responsible television to tell any of these girls that they are too fat, and I think it's wise to point out concerns with Alice's health, but the minute the girls go on a real life go-see, the heavier ones will be told in no uncertain terms, by people who are less kind, they need to drop a lot of weight. This is a serious conundrum for concerned people in the fashion business - do we change the culture from the inside-out by convincing designers to make their sample sizes larger and modifying fashion editors' tastes for the skeletal and macabre (fat chance, I'd say) or do we change it from the outside-in by altering young women's perceptions of what is beautiful and fashionable? Remember, it was only fifteen years ago that the Supermodels reigned - and they were a far more bodacious bunch than the current crop of X-rays. It will be fascinating to see how this year's judges handle the issue.

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Sunday, March 11, 2007

Secret Kingdom

“Where?” is almost everyone’s response when I say I have just returned from Oman. The ignorance is not surprising – Oman has been until recently one of the world’s most secluded nations, cut off from its adjoining neighbours, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, by a belt of barren mountains and treacherous desert, and lost to the modern world for most of the twentieth century because of political instability and lack of economic development. It is the most traditional of the Arabic nations, one of only two countries in the world still ruled by a Sultan (Brunei is the other), where the men are required to wear ankle-length robes called dish-dashas and the women for the most part wear black gowns and veils, some of them heavily jewelled. There are no high-rise buildings in the country (banned by the Sultan’s decree) and no shopping malls containing designer boutiques. It is only a 45-minute flight from Dubai, the new Mecca of modern consumerism, and yet, as soon as you venture outside the airport in Muscat, the capital, you feel you have stepped smack-bang into a page from The Arabian Nights."

...That was the first paragraph of my story on the Sultanate of Oman and the splendid Al Husn hotel in the Shangri La's Barr Al Jissah resort complex which appears in the April issue of Vogue Australia. On sale now.

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Thursday, March 08, 2007

The Portrait of Dorian Lauder


Naughty me, deadline week for my novel and I snuck off to a extravagant lunch to introduce Estee Lauder's Re-Nutriv Re-Creation day and night creme duo to a group of twenty women targeted by the brand as potential ambassadors for the product. Increasingly, savvy corporations are enlisting the goodwill of high-profile women to spread the message about luxury products by word-of-mouth. Let's face it (and this is about faces) it's flattering to identitified as such, Krug'd and dined splendidly, and then handed the coveted goodie bag at the end of the lunch - in this case two jars of the creme, which is valued, I believe, at around $AUD1300. No strings attached, of course - you're free to love it or leave it - but the brands are generally confident that there will be a lot of loving going on. Do I love Re-Creation? Well, I ditched the $400 jar of something else to try it and I have to say I'm very well-disposed towards it after only two nights and a day. It's lighter than most Lauder moisturisers and incredibly dewy. It's not going to help me finish my novel but when I get round to doing the publicity hopefully I can get away with being a "bright young novelist."

Saturday, March 03, 2007

Happy Mardis Gras to all of gay Sydney - may your cowboys all be rhinestone tonight.